Review: Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve NV

Champagne Mailly is a cooperative establishment based in the village of Mailly, about 20 minutes south-east of Reims. The area has been growing grapes since the 13th century.

The entire village has the prestige of being classified as a Grand Cru (premier class) area, with all of Mailly’s 70 hectares of vineyards sitting within the borders. This classification means that the quality of fruit is typically expected to be top shelf due to ideal environmental conditions. As such, many of the worlds most “prestigious” champers are made completely for Grand Cru blends and vintages.

Mailly’s strength lies in making this fruit quality accessible to the mass market at a reasonable price.

The cooperative is made from 80 different growers, most of whom are direct descendants of the original establishers of the estate. In the recent past, the wines were assembled by renown Chef de Cave Herve Dantan, who only recently took his talents to Lanson.

Another source of pride for Mailly is what goes on beneath its glorious vineyards. A beautiful system of chalk caverns  is used to house its champagnes as they mature for lengthy spells – typically 3 years.

While fairly unknown in the public eye, Mailly has luckily found distribution in Australia through the Woolworths group at Dan Murphy’s.

Now to give it a sip!

Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve.jpg
Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve.jpg

Details:

From: Mailly, Champagne, France

Code: CM-824-001

Cost & Source: ~$60 a bottle available from Dan Murphy’s

Blend Ratio (%): Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Pinot Meunier (75/25/0) with 9 g/l dosage.

Aging: Around 3 years

Disgorged: N/A

Sipped: September 2017

In the Glass:

Look: Soft pale gold, with moderate bead.

Smell: The time spent aging shows through with soft bread and wet dough notes that are cut with fruit – soft citrus notes and fresh picked berries..

Taste: Mailly’s arrival on the tongue is a mix of pastry and fruit, with passionfruit and docile grapefruit and lime. Also notable is the matured sugar and flavour of over-ripe apples which make it taste a little flat.

Texturally, Mailly is awesome – a beautiful creamy feeling in the mouth that is easily its hallmark.

The after taste is a touch tart on the middle of the tongue.

It’s not a bad champagne – but it’s not vibrant – perhaps it has been sitting around on shelves for too long. I was matching it with fresh Sashimi, but I think it needs something hot and more saucy.

Recommendations:

Party Potential: Mailly sits right on the average price point for brand champagne at $60 per bottle, but I find it to be more open for food matching over being a mass-volume quaffer. If you are particular about finding a wine to match specific food or canape’s – then this would be right up your alley (particularly with cream laden savoury meals). Use as a BYO bottle for your next small dinner party.

As a Gift: A specialised, high-fruit quality wine for aficionados.

At Home: In all likelihood, Mailly will make a one time purchase you’ll end up using for a nice dinner with friends over.

Score & Verdict:

5.25/10

A quirky village raised personality from a nice part of the world. A bit 50/50 – some things they do are amazing. Other things they do can leave you a little unsatisfied. If you like topsy-turvy – then by all means…

At $60 I feel it is only average value for the quality.

How did I drink it?

As a companion to another fantastic Omakase meal by Sashimi Shinsengumi, with fresh sushi dishes.

How did you drink it?

And how did you find it? Let me know!

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